Tuesday, August 14, 2007

The Camel Has Been Conquered!


This year's hike was one of the most difficult and correspondingly one of the most rewarding. The ascent of Camel's Hump (4083 feet) in particular, was maybe the prettiest, and steepest, part of the trail yet. It is the most popular so if we are to trust the hoople we are in agreement. It was the most breathtaking for around 374 reasons but a few of the highlights were the view-you can actually see, on a clear day, the Appalachian Trail's end, Mt. Washington, the view to the west of Lake George and Champlain, New York's Adirondacks to the west and the White Mountains of New Hampshire on the flank to the east. The trail itself was also unique this year because of the varied-the descent was around 3000 feet to the base of Camel's Hump-topography. The types of forest and plant life are noticeably different as you descend. Hikers can also see the peak from around 10 different perspectives as the trail winds along rocky patches that expose the entire valley to the south and the rocky summit that is above the tree line.






The hike was a rough one overall however. The initial ascent from rte 17 was brutal to say the least. Our climbing baptism of fire after a year off was once again a rude awakening as the rocky Long Trail dished out some whoop-ass on the weak thighs and calfs of the Fons/Trochanowski troop up the misnamed Baby Stark Mountain. The group marched at a different pace in the morning this day as Chris dropped off Jim and Tim at the trail head so he could drop the car off in Waterbury so that the future haggard hikers could rest their weary bones at the Old Stagecoach Bed and Breakfast at the end of the proposed journey. This year the goal was to begin at rte 17 (Ap gap as the LTer's-Long Trail hikers-call it) to rte 2 at the base of Camel's Hump. The taxi driver by the way was a lefty from northern New Jersey whose family were original English settlers in the mid 17th century who had farmed in Saddle River until the 1920's!



After meeting at noon at Birch Glen Shelter the Troika advanced, uphill of course, on a rocky trail to Cowles Cove Shelter where we camped the night in luxurious quarters with a Quebecoise with a bed pan and a Connecticutian who works at the Burning Man.



The next day's hike was the primary topic of conversation that evening as the challenging reputation of the trail was discussed by both other hikers who passed and the trail guide. The hype was not over-rated as the next day's ascent and descent of Ira and Ethan Allen mountains were maybe the toughest (in the rain by the way) and most brutal hike that we have experienced. The slippery conditions certainly did not help as after one makes it to a summit the descent becomes incredibly treacherous adding a physical and mental dimension to hiking that one might not expect.



The night's incredible sunset and later the black/cool/clear/star-packed sky proved to be a positive omen however as the next day's ominous behemoth, Camel's Hump, loomed to the north.




The next day's hike was a tiring (over 8 miles) but amazing day as we climbed Camel's Hump and descended to rte 2 ahead of schedule. The "milk stinkers" we shared Montclair Glen Lodge with the night before kept the same pace as Chris and Tim as we quickly climbed the mountain that has two quite unique formations as one advances from the south, 1) a rock face that looks oddly like George Washington



and 2) the Hump that looks like a Sphinx-like resting lion (called by French settler's Le Lion Couchant).



The final day left us ahead of schedule so into Waterbury we went, swimming in the Winooski River (our fist bath in days) along the way.



After a surprisingly grand meal at the Alchemist brew pub, great Porter by the way, we hung out at the downtown band shell with many a well-heeled liberal Vermonter watching an Ethiopian band while perusing the farmer's market. Tim struck up a conversation with the local boomerang monger who invited us to learn the "sport" at the local ball field into the star packed cool Vermont evening. The boomerang dude by the way was a hep-cat if there ever was one, taking lots of time to show us how the odd wood is thrown, made and used in sport.

The following day, after the first good sleep in days and a fab breakfast with some Ontarians, we went to Stowe for some site seeing, LAUNDRY??!!, and sleeping in front of libraries.


The final evening found us in the booming metropolis and capitol of Vermont, Montpelier, for the championship game of the New England Collegiate Baseball League, featuring the Vermont Mountaineers and the Rhode Island Gulls. The Vermonters won so the hometown crowd was ecstatic and so was Skip!


Really a good trip this year. Great weather, really spectacular views, very little bickering and good food-particularly the Mongolian sheep soup! Until next year....

1 comment:

fonsfamily said...

Vermont 2007, The Long Trail

Monday August 6, Annapolis to River Edge with Amelia and Ben. Picked up
Chris and Tim. Had lunch. Tim got a sandwich from Dante's. Nice drive to
Waitsfield, VT via NY Thruway and scenic route in Vt. Arrived evening at
Millbrook Inn. Nice supper and a nice room,suite actually.

Tuesday Aug. 7. Nice B & B breakfast. Chris dropped Tim and me off at
Appalachian Gap (Rt 17) (2377'). Tim and I started ascent of rocky trail to
Baby Stark Mt. (2863') Molly Stark Mt. and Beane Mt. That's a lot of
climbing! (Tim helped me up and down some of the steeper rocky steps.)
Chris, who had taxied back from the Motel at the end, caught up to us here.
Then a more gentle climb to Cowles Cove Shelter. Chris did it in about 4
1/2 hours. It took me about 6 1/2. Nice lean-to. We were joined by a
middle aged couple hiking north as we were. She was from Montreal and he
from Connecticut. Nice conversation after a hard, hot and sweaty day.
Chris and I had our dried Torticelli for supper and Tim his can of
Spaghetti-Os. First time we saw a "Night Pot" on the trail. Useful.
Pretty good night's sleep. Some snoring. 5.5 miles

Wed. Aug 9, CowlesCove Shelter to Montclair Glen Lodge. 5.1 miles. Rain
overnight but stopped by breakfast. Ordinary breakfast of oatmeal, hot
chocolate and a salami sandwich for Chris. (P.S. from yesterday. Tim had
half of Dante's sub for lunch and his can of spaghetti-O's for supper.)
Rugged going to Burnt rock Mountain (so what else is new?), supposedly a
nice view but completely clouded over and under.Then up to Mt. Ethan Allen.
3680 feet. Downhill to Montclair Glen Lodge (2680') but the trail devils
would make up for it tomorrow. A wet, hard but bearable day. We were
joined at the tenting area by a young couple doing the whole trail with a
dog and in the lodge by two high school brothers from MA. Interesting boys
doing the whole trail. Had a lot of stuff including powdered milk to which
Chris attributed various smells in the night because of the preparation and
consumption of the milk. The MA boys got up at 5:30 to pray from their
prayer books and bowed down to pray on their mats. I must admit my legs
were
tired at the end of both days. Talked to the Green Mt. club Caretaker about
stuff. The rate for the lodge has gone up to $5 per person per day. Still
a bargain. Enjoyed a very pleasant sunset. the wind in the trees caused
the rays to come and go and the colors were very nice. We got some good
pictures.

Thursday August 9. Montclair Glen Lodge to Duxbury Rd 8.1 miles. (2670' to
400') But the trail designer found Camel's Hump at 4083' our highest peak
and a number of other rock ledges in between. The caretaker had stressed
that it is only 2 miles to Camels Hump from the lodge and maybe the best
vistas on the trail. She did say it was a climb but that only the last .2
mile was very steep. It was rock climbing that last .2 mile. There is an
alternate Alpine Trail to skirt that last .2 mile in inclement weather and
I had generally decided to take it in the morning. We started out and
although it was steep rocky going it was a cool clear day. I had clean
dry clothing and we had decided to go all the way to the Inn that day rather
than stop at Bamforth Shelter. A little bit of an inducement. When I got
to the Alpine Trail (3800' in .2 mile doesn't sound like that much but in
practice is almost straight up on the topo map and all rock.) Chris had
already gone to the top and left his pack there and returned. So he took my
pack and I climbed without it. It was worth it! The vista grand and clear
all the way to the Adirondacks, Lakes Champlain and George in the West and
the white Mountains of New Hampshire in the East. Took a lot of pictures
and started down. (One P.S. The trail in the beginning included a straight
down rock with an aluminum ladder to descend. The young couples dog
couldn't climb down the ladder. so after a lot of discussion they emptied
his pack, blindfolded the dog and descended the ladder. Chris and Ted
continued down the steep 6.1 miles to the car past the shelter we originally
intended to stop at. He got a ride to the car quickly from a doctor
inclined toward his political philosophy quickly and made arrangements at
the Old Shepherd Inn, Waterbury to stay the night. I arrived about 2 hours
after they did. The walk down was steep and included SEVERAL pretty but
rocky alpine ridges. We descended about 3700' not including intermediate
uphills. Tim and Chris got the time to take a dip in a pool of the Winooski
River before I got to them. They had reports from at least one woman that I
would be there about 3:30 and I actually arrived about 4. The walk down
included some beautiful switchbacks and one natural rock garden of immense
proportions. We were glad for a shower at the Inn and a hot meal at the
alchemist Pub. Good beer and food.

Friday August 11. A nice B&B breakfast including waffles, omelets and
Chris' favorite Huevos Rancheros. I tried them the second morning and they
were good. Our free day in Vermont. An easy drive to Stowe to see the
antique car show. Decided against the cars for an alternate plan. Tim and
Chris looked around Stowe including the market and a boomerang maker and
doer. They had fun. I did the laundry. Chris had heard about a minor
collegiate ball game in Montpelier, the state capitol, on the radio the
night before.After several wrong directions we found Jimmz for pizza, which
Tim pronounced to be good. After lunch we went to a nice small lake and
rented a canoe (Waterbury Reservoir). Tim caught a bass on the first cast
but not another an hour and a half of trying. Chris got some sun. They
both swam across the lake and back. We had a nice supper at Thrush's in
Montpelier. The waitress wanted to go to the ball game but had to work.
the stadium was packed for the final game of the New England Collegiate
Baseball League finals between the Vermont Mountaineers and the Newport
Gulls. Good game and very enthusiastic fans. Fortunately Vermont won.
Their pitcher did not allow a run and pitched the whole game.Very appetizing
looking food at the stadium but we had already eaten. I did buy some ribs
to take home.

Saturday August 11. The ride home. Chris did a good job of driving the
whole way. Thanks Chris and Tim for a great trip.