Delfi

Awoke to very unfamiliar sounds this morning. Our hotel in Delfi overlooks one of the most spectacular valleys I have ever witnessed, the only parallel in my experience would be the high Sierra above the tree line. Not something we expected traveling only around an hour and a half out of Athens. Back to the melody, encantations, morning prayers, chior practice? As I struggled towards conciousness this morning I heard a signing style from an elderly man (?) resonating out into the valley. At first I thought is was a recording but as I listened closer it seemed to either be coming from the house up the hill from our place or the Greek Orthodox church at the top of the knoll. I presume it was Greek and in the style of the Muslim call to prayer but more melodic and it went on for at least an hour. The sound reminded me how history's imprint can not easily be erased given the Islam's retreat from the region at least 400 years ago (I am really not sure of the autonomy of the Greek Orthodox church under the Ottomans). At any rate a pleasant sound and not one easily erased from the memory tapes.

As I mentioned the setting of Delfi is undescribeable. Not only the valley itself but also the view of the Mediterranean to the west and the penninsula that once housed Sparta. Now the entire valley floor is carpeted with olive orchards which have an off green color that although the mono-culture is quite stiking.

The primary reason we came up to this region was to visit Tele and his family in their home in Levadia. The feasting of the region is renowned and along with Tele's dad's home cured olives we never have eaten so well the entire time in Greece. Tele and family are heading to Hios, Julia's childhood island home, so we had to clear out Saturday so we decided to take a bus up the way 40 kilometers or so and vist Delfi.

Again, ancient Greek history and mythology are not my strong suit but Delfi is one of the most important sites of classical Greece and the greater Mediterranean. Like the Acroplis the Greek government runs the site and a ticket system that allows you to visit the site numerous times for one price. The sites are also very non-commercial with no gift shops within a stones throw. The highlight of the site for me was the theatre which overlooks the valley with a view comparable to the Grand Canyon or Half Dome at Yosemite. I also was taken by the stadium at the base of the grand cliffs that top the site. To think of the crowds and competition at this presence made me want to know more and more about the region and events of the time. Paul actually has a digital video camera along and I think the clips from this chapter will be worth the view. I will try to create a link some how.

Two things I forgot to mention on the Delfi/Levadeia leg (I am writing this from Köln, Germany, Monday afternoon after a very shaky landing on Germanwings airline) 1). I had my first experience with what the Greeks call an Ottoman toilet. It's a whole, no seat, no railings, aim required. 2). At the Delfi museum there is the most haunting bust, I think the rest-the body was lost-I have ever seen. The artist and subject are debated but they claimed it might be this Titus cat who gave autonomy to the Greeks in Roman times. I will look for a picture and post it. A must see in person. Realistic, a cross in his left eye, pronounced Roman nose, erily human.

Today back to Athens and tommorow I am off to Cologne for a couple of days and then to Copenhagen for one day and then...sadly to the homestead in Milwaukee.

Ciao!